***WARNING*** Due to
3-Prong Hawaii's pole spear being extremely light weight ample care
should be taken so as to not step on, smash or bend excessively.
Doing any one of these to your pole spear may result in stress
fractures or snapping in half. This pole spear is not as strong as
the heavier ones on the market today and is specifically designed
for small game, i.e., pan fry fish.
Notice for Hole Gun
Converters w/steel shaft: If you are getting frequent
blow throughs with your converted Spear Gun to a 3-Prong Hole Gun on
targeted fish we recommend that you try weakening your band. We have
found that most stock bands have a power force between 70 - 90 lbs
or more per band to propel a stock flopper barbed steel shaft which
is way to strong for a hole gun setup. We recommend using a single
band with a force between 50 - 60 lbs as your starting point.
the primary use for your hole gun setup are for shots at close range
and in holes.
Notice for Power Band: We recommend a
twist or two on your power
rubber band when loading your 3-Prong Hawaii Pole spear upon getting
ready to fire it. This helps to ensure the stored power from the
loaded rubber band is along the length of the pole spear and not
across the cross-section of the pole spear. To have a twist in your
power rubber band when loading your pole spear use your forward hand
to twist the pole spear while loading (pulling the power band with
your rear hand towards your forward hand) with your back hand.
Notice for Aluminum
Head and Adapter Male/Female Threads: We recommend using a little
anti-seize (petroleum jelly can be used to) on the
male/female threads before using your new pole spear as this will
ensure the ease of changing your head every time you want to. After
applying a little lubricant hand tightening the head to the pole
spear adapter is all that's needed. Be sure to reapply anti-seize or
petroleum jelly on an as needed basis. If you are not planning to
change heads often use a little Teflon tape (aka: pipe seal tape)
which works great to ensure the head doesn't come loose and if you ever
want to take off the head in the future you can as 99.9% of the time
the Teflon tape will ensure the head and
male head adapter does not freeze together.
Notice for Break-down KUMU
Spear: If you have a Break-down KUMU Pole
Spear we recommend using a little anti-seize (petroleum jelly can be
used to) on the
5/8" male/female connection's 3/8-24
before using your new pole spear as this will
ensure the ease of breaking down when finished diving. Really Important! when screwing
together or breaking down your Break-down KUMU Pole Spear always do
so with the front-half and back-half in a VERTICAL POSITION
in relation to the ground/water (perpendicular to the
ground/water). Be sure to reapply anti-seize on an as needed basis.
Competition or Ultimate Competition 3-Prong Head: If you are using our
Competition or Ultimate Competition 3-Prong Head (Comp heads have knurl on each prong and a
1/16 stub barb on one or all prongs) we have learned that the easiest way to
take off fish once speared is to rock (rock motion needs to be
perpendicular to the pole spear) the fish back and forth a little
while executing the pulling off motion. Hope this makes sense. If
you try to pull the fish off in a straight fashion without the
little rocking motion it may be really difficult to pull off
especially if the stub barb catches in a dense boney area of
the fish. The last resort to take off a fish if the preceding does
not work is to put the speared fish between the bottom of your fin
boots aligning just below your ankles while cupping your feet
together and then pull the pole spear with your hands while pushing
away with your legs... be sure the fish is secured on your KUI
(stringer) before doing this. Some may laugh reading this but I had
to do this a few times and also heard it from other divers who had
to do the same to get fish off using this head as well. This is why
we called this head the "Competition/Ultimate Competition Head" as
they are our best heads
with respect to landing fish at a high percentage. In addition we are finding out from divers who are
using our Competition or Ultimate Competition 3-Prong Head that in many cases even
though fish has escaped off of this head they soon die shortly after
because as the fish frees itself off of the prong with the stub barb it
subjects itself to some serious damage to internal organs on the way
out. The best way to describe this is if you were to have a fish
hook lodged into your flesh with the barb buried in and try to pull
it out, the barb will tear flesh, bone, etc on the way out. So when
using this head and a fish escapes after a well placed shot, spend a
little time in the area to see if the fish has died or weakened and
if so you can retrieve it. Most of the time while reef diving an
injured fish will immediately seek hiding in a hole/cave but as it
nears death it will want to come out into the open to die.
Q- Just how light weight are your pole spears?
A- Our pole spears overall weight ranges from
300 to 450 grams (overall weight includes our standard 3-prong head
and no power band) depends on length, model and custom painted or
not. One (1) pound is equivalent to ~454 grams/16 oz. A different
brand of pole spear claims their spear is light weight weighing in
at 1.7 pounds (~771 grams). On the downside producing our light weight pole spear comes
at a cost in which we are upfront about making sure all understand
and acknowledge fully... ***WARNING***
Due to 3-Prong Hawaii's pole spear being extremely light weight
ample care should be taken so as to not step on, smash or bend
excessively. Doing any one of these to your pole spear may result in
stress fractures or snapping in half. This pole spear is not as
strong as the heavier ones on the market today and is specifically
designed for small game, i.e., pan fry fish.
However we do also offer
break-away head options for those wanting to take on bigger game
while using our pole spear. The break-away head helps to cut down on
most of the side force in which the "pole" portion has to
endure when trying to secure a struggling speared fish. We recommend that our pole spear
be purchased and used by intermediate or more seasoned pole spear fishers only
in either case previously mentioned.
Q- I want to use different heads on my pole
spear since there are many more options today and would like to
change them frequently and maybe even change the head while diving,
is this possible?
A- Yes since our pole spears come with a male
3/8-24 threaded head adapter. Each pole spear typically comes with
our standard 3-Prong Head and we add a little medium thread lock when
installing them (we will no longer be applying
thread lock on any new pole spears we produced from January 14,
2012 on as this will allow an easy change to other available pole
spear head options).
We recommend using a little anti-seize (petroleum jelly can be used
to) on the male/female threads before using your new pole spear as
this will ensure the ease of changing your head every time you want
to. Be sure to reapply anti-seize on an as needed basis. Also "Hand
Tight" will be sufficient for each head or adapter screwed on when
changing in this setup. If your
pole spear has been used then taking off the head might be more
challenging. Using a little heat will help to take off the head but be sure you
don't use to much heat as this will damage your pole spear.
If you don't want to try to take off the head on your own then
capable dive shops may do it for you and additional fee may apply.
Heads we offer for our Pole Spears are; Standard 3-Prong Head,
3-Prong Head- Knurled Prongs, Competition 3-Prong Head, Single Prong
Head w/Flopper Barb & SlipShaft™ KT-Break-away Head (SlipShaft™
KT-Break-away Head to Pole Spear Adapter required) which can all be
viewed on our "Products" web page click here
Q- Why are the prongs made from spring steel rather
than spring stainless steel?
A- A little rust provides additional grip on
each prong to hold fish plus spring steel prongs have been proven
over decades to be the best and most cost effective material for this application. Some have
tried spring stainless or other highly corrosion resistant steel prongs
and some even tried to cut/emboss/grind additional grip on each
prong but they soon find out that in both cases spring stainless
steel still does not work as
well as the proven rusted steel prongs. The only thing we can think
of to make spring stainless steel prongs work so they are comparable
to rusted steel ones is to add barb/barbs to each prong as some have
done but if this is the case then the cost for a 3-prong head
Q- Why are the 3-Prong Head's prongs so tight
together when initially purchased?
A- Prongs are tight together initially due to
the way they are glued into the aluminum ferrule during
construction. We chose to not "spread them apart after
the glue has cured so as to give divers the opportunity to adjust
the spread on the prongs according to their own liking. As a rule we
suggest spreading the prongs out just a little between 1/4" - 1/2"
space between each for starters.
Q- What is the difference between the 162
prongs and 177 prongs?
A- Mainly weight... 162's are the size we
choose to use mainly for staying disciplined to producing the
lightest weight pole spear possible. For our standard 3-prong heads
w/162 prongs the combined weight of the prongs is about 99 grams
compared to 120.5 grams for 177 prongs. We have also learned that
divers who are using the 162 prongs are noticing that the 162 prongs
spread out better than the 177 prongs after hitting fish. We have
also noticed that the 162 prongs are not as weak as one might think
in fact after using my head for 2 years now I have not had any
issues with them bending out of alignment. In the past I used
another brand of spear with 162 prongs and always had bending out of
alignment issues after hitting fish while diving and the fish wasn't
even large ones in fact small hand size fish. We can only conclude
that the spring steel we use is of superior quality compared to
other brand heads using 162 prongs. For the 177 size prongs, divers
most likely want these on their 3-prong heads because they have
piece of mind that they are stronger which in fact they are and have
experienced what I have explained about using another brand of head
which seems to be constructed with a lower grade of 162 spring steel
prongs that always bend out of alignment easily.
Q- How much of a difference does the knurl on prongs
A- Initially a huge difference as prongs don't
have any rust to provide additional grip when first purchased. After
months of using the head in salt water a substantial layer of rust
will form on each prong and at this point you will have all the grip
possible to help land fish. Keep in mind that the 3-prong head is
designed to hold fish mainly with outward pressure from each prong
against the fishes flesh upon through penetration so rust, knurls,
barbs, etc are techniques added or desired to provide additional
holding grip for the head's basic design.
Q- What is the
difference between your "Plain" 3-Prong Hawaii Pole Spear and the custom
A- About 3-15 grams and a couple hours... the plain ones
are lighter and takes less time to produce than the custom color/patterned
ones. Depends on your taste, the custom color/patterned spears are
way cooler looking and gives your 3-Prong Pole Spear flair, adds a personal
touch, may possibly attract fish and patterns to break up the
spear's silhouette so as to not spook fish.
Q- My aluminum parts are oxidizing?
A- We use the finest/strongest grade
however it will oxidize but not as fast/severe as other lower grades
of aluminum. Some options to help; polishing or anodizing the
aluminum parts. We chose not to use stainless steel due to the extra
weight it adds.
Q- My incorporated grip is to rough how can I reduce
A- Take fine sandpaper (220 grit or finer) and lightly sand
down the grip. Be careful not to sand beyond the grip area, painters
tape can help to protect areas you don't want scuffed while sanding.
Q- My incorporated grip is to long how can I shorten
A- We made the grip on the long-side (thicker portion
of spear, 1/2" tube) for the simple reason of giving the diver
options for power. If you want to shorten it use fine sandpaper (220
grit or finer) and sand down lightly. Be careful not to sand beyond the grip
area, painters tape can help to protect areas you don't want scuffed
while sanding. As far as the grip on the thinner portion of the
spear (3/8" tube) it extends a long way toward the prongs and serves
the purpose for loading grip. Example if you shoot right-handed then
typically your left hand will grip the front portion of the spear
while your right hand pulls on the power rubber band in a forward
direction towards your left hand.
Q- What is the recommended power rubber band size?
A- There are two; 1) 32"
Power Rubber Band 3/8" O.D. (wall.125 | hole .125) = Force of ~30.2
lbs at max* stretch of 48". 2) 32"
Power Rubber Band 7/16" O.D. (wall.156 | hole .125) = Force of ~42.5
lbs at max* stretch of 48". Some divers attach 2 power rubber bands
with the 2nd serving as a back up in case the primary one breaks
while diving. Remember the preceding are recommended but not
mandatory, as the saying goes there are a lot of ways to skin a cat
so this is why we don't include the power rubber band on our spears.
This gives each diver the option to customize his/her power rubber
band to their liking. *max stretch is measured from
back end of spear to back end of ferrule. It is not necessary to
cock the power rubber band to it's max stretch (past or up to the
ferrule) in fact 2 - 6 inches before the ferrule is more than enough
power for most game.
Q- How is the 3-Prong Head connected to the
A- The 3-Prong Head is connected to the Pole Spear with
3/8"-24 threads. The
3/8"-24 female thread and the
Head Adapter has 3/8"-24 male thread. Some Pole Spears have
the 3-Prong Head epoxied directly to the Pole Spear shaft.
Q- My spear is really scratched up from frequent use
can I refinish it?
A- Yes you can. Scuff your spear (excluding all the
incorporated grit areas) lightly with #320 grit sandpaper or finer then clean with
Windex or similar degreaser then dry. Apply
(read and follow directions for applying Flex Coat) with small brush
and hang vertically in doors (hang in doors because bugs are
attracted to the Flex Coat and they will land on your freshly coated
spear and my ruin your perfect finish) for 24 hours or more from 3/16" eye to dry. 3pronghawaii recommends
that you refinish your spear each off-season.
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