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3-Prong FAQ

 

***WARNING*** Due to 3-Prong Hawaii's pole spear being extremely light weight ample care should be taken so as to not step on, smash or bend excessively. Doing any one of these to your pole spear may result in stress fractures or snapping in half. This pole spear is not as strong as the heavier ones on the market today and is specifically designed for small game, i.e., pan fry fish.

Notice for Hole Gun Converters w/steel shaft: If you are getting frequent blow throughs with your converted Spear Gun to a 3-Prong Hole Gun on targeted fish we recommend that you try weakening your band. We have found that most stock bands have a power force between 70 - 90 lbs or more per band to propel a stock flopper barbed steel shaft which is way to strong for a hole gun setup. We recommend using a single band with a force between 50 - 60 lbs as your starting point. Reminder that the primary use for your hole gun setup are for shots at close range and in holes.

Notice for Power Band: We recommend a twist or two on your power rubber band when loading your 3-Prong Hawaii Pole spear upon getting ready to fire it. This helps to ensure the stored power from the loaded rubber band is along the length of the pole spear and not across the cross-section of the pole spear. To have a twist in your power rubber band when loading your pole spear use your forward hand to twist the pole spear while loading (pulling the power band with your rear hand towards your forward hand) with your back hand.    

Notice for Aluminum Head and Adapter Male/Female Threads: We recommend using a little anti-seize (petroleum jelly can be used to) on the male/female threads before using your new pole spear as this will ensure the ease of changing your head every time you want to. After applying a little lubricant hand tightening the head to the pole spear adapter is all that's needed. Be sure to reapply anti-seize or petroleum jelly on an as needed basis. If you are not planning to change heads often use a little Teflon tape (aka: pipe seal tape) which works great to ensure the head doesn't come loose and if you ever want to take off the head in the future you can as 99.9% of the time the Teflon tape will ensure the head and male head adapter does not freeze together. 

Notice for Break-down KUMU R1 Pole Spear: If you have a Break-down KUMU Pole Spear we recommend using a little anti-seize (petroleum jelly can be used to) on the 5/8" male/female connection's 3/8-24 threads before using your new pole spear as this will ensure the ease of breaking down when finished diving. Really Important! when screwing together or breaking down your Break-down KUMU Pole Spear always do so with the front-half and back-half in a VERTICAL POSITION in relation to the ground/water (perpendicular to the ground/water). Be sure to reapply anti-seize on an as needed basis.

Notice for Competition or Ultimate Competition 3-Prong Head: If you are using our Competition or Ultimate Competition 3-Prong Head (Comp heads have knurl on each prong and a 1/16 stub barb on one or all prongs) we have learned that the easiest way to take off fish once speared is to rock (rock motion needs to be perpendicular to the pole spear) the fish back and forth a little while executing the pulling off motion. Hope this makes sense. If you try to pull the fish off in a straight fashion without the little rocking motion it may be really difficult to pull off especially if the stub barb catches in a dense boney area of the fish. The last resort to take off a fish if the preceding does not work is to put the speared fish between the bottom of your fin boots aligning just below your ankles while cupping your feet together and then pull the pole spear with your hands while pushing away with your legs... be sure the fish is secured on your KUI (stringer) before doing this. Some may laugh reading this but I had to do this a few times and also heard it from other divers who had to do the same to get fish off using this head as well. This is why we called this head the "Competition/Ultimate Competition Head" as they are our best heads with respect to landing fish at a high percentage. In addition we are finding out from divers who are using our Competition or Ultimate Competition 3-Prong Head that in many cases even though fish has escaped off of this head they soon die shortly after because as the fish frees itself off of the prong with the stub barb it subjects itself to some serious damage to internal organs on the way out. The best way to describe this is if you were to have a fish hook lodged into your flesh with the barb buried in and try to pull it out, the barb will tear flesh, bone, etc on the way out. So when using this head and a fish escapes after a well placed shot, spend a little time in the area to see if the fish has died or weakened and if so you can retrieve it. Most of the time while reef diving an injured fish will immediately seek hiding in a hole/cave but as it nears death it will want to come out into the open to die.   

 

  • Q- Just how light weight are your pole spears?

  • A- Our pole spears overall weight ranges from 300 to 450 grams (overall weight includes our standard 3-prong head and no power band) depends on length, model and custom painted or not. One (1) pound is equivalent to ~454 grams/16 oz. A different brand of pole spear claims their spear is light weight weighing in at 1.7 pounds (~771 grams). On the downside producing our light weight pole spear comes at a cost in which we are upfront about making sure all understand and acknowledge fully... ***WARNING*** Due to 3-Prong Hawaii's pole spear being extremely light weight ample care should be taken so as to not step on, smash or bend excessively. Doing any one of these to your pole spear may result in stress fractures or snapping in half. This pole spear is not as strong as the heavier ones on the market today and is specifically designed for small game, i.e., pan fry fish. However we do also offer break-away head options for those wanting to take on bigger game while using our pole spear. The break-away head helps to cut down on most of the side force in which the "pole" portion has to endure when trying to secure a struggling speared fish. We recommend that our pole spear be purchased and used by intermediate or more seasoned pole spear fishers only in either case previously mentioned.

 

  • Q- I want to use different heads on my pole spear since there are many more options today and would like to change them frequently and maybe even change the head while diving, is this possible?

  • A- Yes since our pole spears come with a male 3/8-24 threaded head adapter. Each pole spear typically comes with our standard 3-Prong Head and we add a little medium thread lock when installing them (we will no longer be applying thread lock on any new pole spears we produced from January 14, 2012 on as this will allow an easy change to other available pole spear head options). We recommend using a little anti-seize (petroleum jelly can be used to) on the male/female threads before using your new pole spear as this will ensure the ease of changing your head every time you want to. Be sure to reapply anti-seize on an as needed basis. Also "Hand Tight" will be sufficient for each head or adapter screwed on when changing in this setup. If your pole spear has been used then taking off the head might be more challenging. Using a little heat will help to take off the head but be sure you don't use to much heat as this will damage your pole spear. If you don't want to try to take off the head on your own then capable dive shops may do it for you and additional fee may apply. Heads we offer for our Pole Spears are; Standard 3-Prong Head, 3-Prong Head- Knurled Prongs, Competition 3-Prong Head, Single Prong Head w/Flopper Barb & SlipShaft™ KT-Break-away Head (SlipShaft™ KT-Break-away Head to Pole Spear Adapter required) which can all be viewed on our "Products" web page click here to see.  

 

  • Q- Why are the prongs made from spring steel rather than spring stainless steel?

  • A- A little rust provides additional grip on each prong to hold fish plus spring steel prongs have been proven over decades to be the best and most cost effective material for this application. Some have tried spring stainless or other highly corrosion resistant steel prongs and some even tried to cut/emboss/grind additional grip on each prong but they soon find out that in both cases spring stainless steel still does not work as well as the proven rusted steel prongs. The only thing we can think of to make spring stainless steel prongs work so they are comparable to rusted steel ones is to add barb/barbs to each prong as some have done but if this is the case then the cost for a 3-prong head increases substantially.

 

  • Q- Why are the 3-Prong Head's prongs so tight together when initially purchased?

  • A- Prongs are tight together initially due to the way they are glued into the aluminum ferrule during construction. We chose to not "spread them apart after the glue has cured so as to give divers the opportunity to adjust the spread on the prongs according to their own liking. As a rule we suggest spreading the prongs out just a little between 1/4" - 1/2" space between each for starters.

 

  • Q- What is the difference between the 162 prongs and 177 prongs?

  • A- Mainly weight... 162's are the size we choose to use mainly for staying disciplined to producing the lightest weight pole spear possible. For our standard 3-prong heads w/162 prongs the combined weight of the prongs is about 99 grams compared to 120.5 grams for 177 prongs. We have also learned that divers who are using the 162 prongs are noticing that the 162 prongs spread out better than the 177 prongs after hitting fish. We have also noticed that the 162 prongs are not as weak as one might think in fact after using my head for 2 years now I have not had any issues with them bending out of alignment. In the past I used another brand of spear with 162 prongs and always had bending out of alignment issues after hitting fish while diving and the fish wasn't even large ones in fact small hand size fish. We can only conclude that the spring steel we use is of superior quality compared to other brand heads using 162 prongs. For the 177 size prongs, divers most likely want these on their 3-prong heads because they have piece of mind that they are stronger which in fact they are and have experienced what I have explained about using another brand of head which seems to be constructed with a lower grade of 162 spring steel prongs that always bend out of alignment easily. 

 

  • Q- How much of a difference does the knurl on prongs make?

  • A- Initially a huge difference as prongs don't have any rust to provide additional grip when first purchased. After months of using the head in salt water a substantial layer of rust will form on each prong and at this point you will have all the grip possible to help land fish. Keep in mind that the 3-prong head is designed to hold fish mainly with outward pressure from each prong against the fishes flesh upon through penetration so rust, knurls, barbs, etc are techniques added or desired to provide additional holding grip for the head's basic design.     

 

  • Q- What is the difference between your "Plain" 3-Prong Hawaii Pole Spear and the custom color/pattern ones?

  • A- About 3-15 grams and a couple hours... the plain ones are lighter and takes less time to produce than the custom color/patterned ones. Depends on your taste, the custom color/patterned spears are way cooler looking and gives your 3-Prong Pole Spear flair, adds a personal touch, may possibly attract fish and patterns to break up the spear's silhouette so as to not spook fish.

 

  • Q- My aluminum parts are oxidizing?

  • A- We use the finest/strongest grade aluminum possible however it will oxidize but not as fast/severe as other lower grades of aluminum. Some options to help; polishing or anodizing the aluminum parts. We chose not to use stainless steel due to the extra weight it adds.

 

  • Q- My incorporated grip is to rough how can I reduce the grit?

  • A- Take fine sandpaper (220 grit or finer) and lightly sand down the grip. Be careful not to sand beyond the grip area, painters tape can help to protect areas you don't want scuffed while sanding.

 

  • Q- My incorporated grip is to long how can I shorten it?

  • A- We made the grip on the long-side (thicker portion of spear, 1/2" tube) for the simple reason of giving the diver options for power. If you want to shorten it use fine sandpaper (220 grit or finer) and sand down lightly. Be careful not to sand beyond the grip area, painters tape can help to protect areas you don't want scuffed while sanding. As far as the grip on the thinner portion of the spear (3/8" tube) it extends a long way toward the prongs and serves the purpose for loading grip. Example if you shoot right-handed then typically your left hand will grip the front portion of the spear while your right hand pulls on the power rubber band in a forward direction towards your left hand.

 

  • Q- What is the recommended power rubber band size?

  • A- There are two; 1) 32" Power Rubber Band 3/8" O.D. (wall.125 | hole .125) = Force of ~30.2 lbs at max* stretch of 48". 2) 32" Power Rubber Band 7/16" O.D. (wall.156 | hole .125) = Force of ~42.5 lbs at max* stretch of 48". Some divers attach 2 power rubber bands with the 2nd serving as a back up in case the primary one breaks while diving. Remember the preceding are recommended but not mandatory, as the saying goes there are a lot of ways to skin a cat so this is why we don't include the power rubber band on our spears. This gives each diver the option to customize his/her power rubber band to their liking. *max stretch is measured from back end of spear to back end of ferrule. It is not necessary to cock the power rubber band to it's max stretch (past or up to the ferrule) in fact 2 - 6 inches before the ferrule is more than enough power for most game.

 

  • Q- How is the 3-Prong Head connected to the pole spear?

  • A- The 3-Prong Head is connected to the Pole Spear with 3/8"-24 threads. The 3-Prong Head has 3/8"-24 female thread and the Head Adapter has 3/8"-24 male thread. Some Pole Spears have the 3-Prong Head epoxied directly to the Pole Spear shaft.

 

  • Q- My spear is really scratched up from frequent use can I refinish it?

  • A- Yes you can. Scuff your spear (excluding all the incorporated grit areas) lightly with #320 grit sandpaper or finer then clean with Windex or similar degreaser then dry. Apply Flex Coat (read and follow directions for applying Flex Coat) with small brush and hang vertically in doors (hang in doors because bugs are attracted to the Flex Coat and they will land on your freshly coated spear and my ruin your perfect finish) for 24 hours or more from 3/16" eye to dry. 3pronghawaii recommends that you refinish your spear each off-season.

 

 


 

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My other web site www.dirtyhandscollection.com